![]() ![]() That his memoir would be almost entirely concerned with wave riding is a bit of a surprise, if a welcome one. Finnegan lovingly remembers every break, treating them like old friends who only occasionally tried to brutally murder him. ![]() Honolulu, LA, Fiji, Australia, Madeira, San Francisco. In fact, there is no wave in his memoir Barbarian Days that Finnegan can't describe in intimate detail. It was more that they scrambled it." Longtime New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan is being modest here, relating one of many spiritually resonant surfing experiences on Fiji's Tavarua Island in 1978. "It wasn't that the waves beggared language. Your purchase helps support NPR programming. ![]() Close overlay Buy Featured Book Title Barbarian Days Subtitle A Surfing Life Author William Finnegan ![]()
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